a little over a decade ago, my family and
i had a summer vacation in greece. despite the heat we all loved athens and
santorini and more than anything i loved the food. on the ferry from athens to
santorini our hearing was assaulted by the loud and persistent cry of a man
selling loukoumia, a soft sweet and gelatinous square reminiscent of turkish delight.
we bought home boxes of the honey and apricot kind. whilst in greece we ate lots
of seafood, souvlaki, moussaka and the cooling tzatziki and taramosalata. i was
partial to the thick and cold frappes as well. what appealed to me most was the
simplicity of the food and the strength of the taste of the olive oil. i have
not since been back to greece but there is a memory that lingers on of an
evening in plaka of a particularly good dinner of large dolmades cloaked
under a blanket of avgolemono sauce. since then, the only really good greek
food i’ve had is in arizona. it strikes me as strange that for all its cosmopolitanism, london does not have a single decent greek restaurant, a fact that is affirmed
by my greek friends.
a couple of weeks ago we had a reunion –
m square, k sans p, o and i. m and i had been going back and forth with a list
of chinese and thai restaurants but in the end settled on retsina as k cannot
have chilli food. o and i were familiar with retsina from our days of watching
the f word. i must confess that having tried another f word restaurant which did not live up to its expectations so i wasn’t
entirely sure it would be a good choice. the fact that the restaurant didn’t
have m’s reservation listed was a rather inauspicious start.
o and i gladly left the ordering to the
greek contingent of the dinner party so to start there was haloumi, dolmathes,
spanagopita, tzatziki and kalamari. of the five it was only the spanagopita
that was worth a mention which had a nice balance of salty feta with spinach
encased in a thin flaky filo. the kalamari was overly oily and chewy, the
hauloumi had been over grilled and was tough to eat and the tzatziki suffered from a lack of garlicky boldness. the dolmathes were nothing like the moist and
flavourful ones that i had had in athens and what i missed the most is that
lovely creamy and thick avgolemono sauce made by thickening broth with egg and
lemon.
the mains were mousaka, soutzokakia
(meatballs) and chicken kebab. i tried the mousaka which was fair enough but
needed a slightly thicker blanket of béchamel sauce. the
meatballs were very good and packed an earthy flavour of oregano. to finish there
was the really nutty halva made with sesame, some baklava and loukomia, easily the best part of the meal.
i left
retsina extremely disappointed with the awareness that i’ll have to forgo my
craving for greek food until i go there again.
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