ottolenghi's blood orange polenta cake |
o became british on sixteenth april twenty twelve. it is of course no
secret that thirty two loves ottolenghi and so it should come as no surprise
that ottlenghi’s creations were an important part of the celebration of his
newly acquired status. on the morning of o’s citizenship ceremony the sun
decided to show its face in what has otherwise been a very wet april. sadly, a
rather stubborn bout of laryngitis had claimed my voice and i remained mute
through the celebratory lunch at the islington ottolenghi. the ceremony itself
was relaxed and informal. the mayor of finsbury spoke a little bit about the
history of the borough and the culture of freedom of speech, democracy and
diversity in the united kingdom. choreographed pictures by a photographer who
wore a silky tie with a huge tigger and piglet print accompanied the
citizenship certificates. o became british to the soundtrack of the beatles
playing softly in the council chamber at islington town hall.
after the ceremony concluded we walked the short distance to ottolenghi
and sat down to lunch. the flagship minimalist decor and white crockery
amplifies the brightness of salads made with vegetables with
autumnal tones like butternut squash, heritage carrots and aubergines. earthy grains
like farro and quinoa brightened with pomegranate seeds and fresh herbs were
like the first blush of spring that is sorely lacking in the weather outside. o
and h indulged in a glass of prosecco whilst i had to content myself with a pot
of green tea. the three of us had a choice of two salads and a side of meat. h
had the lamb, o the beef and i had a thick fillet of salmon that came with a
crown of marinated artichokes. o’s butterbean hummus is silky smooth and heavy
with the rich sharp taste of tahini. the artichoke on my salmon added a lemony
freshness that cut through the fattiness of the fish. chunks of butternut
squash that had been roasted until the flesh is tender is lacquered with a
piquant greek yogurt dressing. ottolenghi always creates food that appeals to
all the elements of the palate – sweet, savoury, tart and bitter. visually, it
is a riot of colour and is enough to lift ones spirits no matter how british
the weather is.
a slice of blood orange polenta cake |
at home, i had made the new citizen ottolenghi’s orange polenta cake
delicately scented with orange blossom water. the cake draws texture from
polenta and moisture from ground almonds and citrus fruit. its exterior has
that pleasing chewiness that comes from the caramel used to glaze the slices of
oranges that give the cake its distinctive orange studded surface. this is a
cake that keeps well and tastes better as it sits. if you do plan to put it in
the fridge i would recommend bringing it to room temperature before you serve
it. it is a labour intensive cake in the sense that you will have a pile of
washing up to do but it’s definitely worth the effort. it isn’t a very sweet
cake although that may well be because i dispensed with the optional marmalade
glaze. it is for this reason that o did not take to the dollop of crème fraiche
that i served it with. i however like the contrast…
the recipe for orange polenta cake appears in ottolenghi the
cookbook on page one nine five. an adapted version of it with american
measurements is on the gourmet website.
love ottolenghi, his creative approach to food, and all his food look just as good as they taste top, so it's always a visual east too. the cake looks fab, that brilliant orange! and I like polenta/almond based cakes, its not about them being gluten-free really, but I really like that kind of soft moist yet light texture. yum.
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